Willunga 100, `Trott Vineyard Blewitt Springs` McLaren Vale Grenache 2022, Australia

92 points, (£28)
Particularly fragrant, with rose and lavender, pomegranate and blueberry. Soft and yielding, plump, juicy and easy-going style. Firm acids ride in on the finish, with soft but tense tannins. Violets continue the floral style on the finish. Grown on grey loamy sands. 

Willunga 100 has focused on old-vine Grenache in McLaren Vale since its first vintage in 2005. They made their first single vineyard wine in 2009, and have since helped pioneer a fresher, more lifted style that highlights the sensitivity of Grenache to site in the Blewitt Springs and Clarendon sub-zones.

Willunga 100 has sourced fruit since 2013 from two of the most fabled vineyards in McLaren Vale, Sue Trott’s 70-year-old site in Blewitt Springs and the other from Bernard and Wayne Smart’s century-old one hectare vineyard in Clarendon. “When we started buying fruit from these two vineyards, nobody else wanted it. Today, there is a queue stretching all the way to Adelaide to buy grapes from these sites,” says part owner David Gleave.

The same winemaking techniques are used for both wines. While 10% of the Trott grapes are retained as whole bunch to lend aromatics to a warmer site, the Smart grapes are destemmed but not crushed, the aim being to enhance the perfumes of this more elegant site. The rest of the winemaking is identical: about 12 days on skins in small open top fermenters with gentle punching down and malolactic in tank followed by ageing on lees in stainless steel for 12 months before bottling. These unoaked wines come from sites that are only 8 minutes apart by car, yet they are markedly different in style. Clarendon has more of a continental climate, with warmer daytime temperatures and cool nights, as breezes flow down from the nearby Adelaide Hills, while the warmer days in Blewitt Springs are moderated by the sea breezes from the Gulf of St. Vincent. In Clarendon, the aromatic lift comes more from the proximity to the Adelaide Hills rather than from the loamy, silty soils, while in Blewitt Springs the Maslin sand soils act as a trigger on Grenache’s aromatics.

The focus on single sites has brought critical success to Willunga 100. The 2021 ‘Smart’ won the Grenache trophy at Australia’s National Wine Show in 2023. This is the second time a Willunga Grenache has been honoured with a trophy at the show, as in 2017 the 2015 ‘Trott’ took home Best Alternative Variety. National Wine Show success continued in 2024, with Willunga 100 winning two of the three gold medals awarded in the Grenache class, for the 2022 McLaren Vale Grenache and 2022 ‘Trott’.

Willunga 100 purchased the ‘Blind Spot’ vineyard in 2019. This 19-hectare site, in the heart of Blewitt Springs on Maslin sands, has close to eight hectares of old, bush-trained Grenache situated on Moritz Road, within the ‘Hundred of Willunga’. This is the source of Willunga 100’s Grenache and Grenache Rosé, both of which are single vineyard wines. The former has about 15% whole bunch in 2021 vintage, which lifts the naturally aromatic fruit of Grenache grown on Maslin sand, while the latter is pale, dry and, as they say in Australia, ‘smashable’. New to the range is the 2023 ‘Blind Spot’ Grenache. Awarded 95 points and Gold in James Halliday’s Wine Companion, it is described, alongside Trott and Smart, as another fine example of single site Grenache: “The clarity of making is the same, with each speaking of site, and all three pure, lithe and vibrant, but ‘Blind Spot’ presents as the slightly more brooding of the trio.”

The dry grown Grenache bush vines used for this wine were sourced solely from the top 12 rows of Sue Trott’s vineyard in Blewitt Springs, which was planted in 1952. This is the highest part of the vineyard, at 210 metres above sea level, and it benefits from cool breezes coming off the Gulf of St. Vincent. These breezes not only protect the fruit from diseases and help enhance the aromatic character of the wine but they also ensure that the temperature is slightly cooler than it is lower down in the McLaren Vale. The soil is deep Maslin Sand over a clay and ironstone base.

The 2021/2022 growing season will be remembered as an excellent one, with a wet winter setting the vines up perfectly for the year ahead. A very mild, but also dry, summer/autumn followed – meaning there was low disease pressure over a very gentle and extended ripening period. Yields were slightly down on average but with other conditions being favourable, the season has resulted in excellent wines showing great varietal character with fresh natural acidity.

The fruit was hand harvested with 10% remaining as whole bunch and the remainder destemmed into stainless steel open fermenters. Fermentation took place on the skins, lasting for 10 days, during which time it was gently plunged to ensure optimum extraction whilst maintaining the delicate aromatics. The wine was basket pressed off skins before maturation and malolactic fermentation on lees in stainless steel to retain fruit purity and freshness.

The wine has a bright lifted nose of redcurrant, boysenberry and violets. This profile continues onto the palate where the red berry fruit is complemented by warm cinnamon spice, orange zest and cranberry. The wine finishes with bright, juicy acidity and lingering fine grained tannins.