Molino Real , `Mountain Blanco` Málaga Muscat 2021, Spain

The 2021 vintage is still youthful but the extra two years in the bottle have transformed it into a highly original white wine, which starts out with a marked grapey aroma before revealing scented wild herbs and vibrant green fruits. As it continues to open in the glass, there’s what I can only describe as a ‘fumy’ aroma that reminds me of Riesling that has been fermented with ambient rather than cultured yeast. Despite the heady mix of aromas, the wine is bone dry even if there is a fullness and generosity in the mouth. It’s intense and long and remarkably fresh. Alcohol in this vintage is 13.5%. The wine may not appeal to those who prefer their white wines to smell steely and taste lean but I found the combination of aromatic complexity, intensity and a long, dry finish captivating – so much so that I had to keep returning to the glass to discover more. I am looking forward to trying this wine after even longer in the bottle and I suspect it will be still going strong in five years.
 

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