John Duval, `Annexus` Barossa Grenache 2022, Australia

96 points, (£45)
The beautifully poised 2022 Grenache Annexus from the Eden Valley is shy right now but will be something special given the time. Right now, it delivers understated meaty and spicy aromas with a dark cherry undertow and oak nicely couched in behind. Fabulous focus and energy follow in a seamless and understated package yet this shows exceptional density of fruit of focus that drives a long, seamless finish.

John Duval is the sixth generation of his family to grow grapes in South Australia, but only the first to transition from grape growing to winemaking. He began his winemaking career at Penfolds in 1974. Here, he was mentored for 12 years by the legendary Max Schubert, creator of ‘Grange', one of Australia’s most coveted wines. In 1986 John was appointed Chief Winemaker at Penfolds, where he continued the ‘Grange’ legacy, making some of its most celebrated vintages, before leaving to found his own, eponymous winery in 2003.

John Duval Wines began with a single wine and grew over two decades to become one of the Barossa’s most celebrated producers. Rather than trying to emulate Penfolds, John has carved out his own, expressive style which honours the Duval family history by working with growers with exceptional vineyards. These are wines with a sense of place which champion old Barossan vines. In 2016, John Duval Wines welcomed their next generation, as eldest son Tim joined the family wine business to work alongside his father.

John and Tim source fruit from long-time friends in the Barossa, whose low-yielding vines are aged from 50 to well over 100 years old. Showcasing the best of the region, their wines are made with minimal intervention and are characterised by an elegant purity that differs from the classic, rich Barossa style.

The fruit for the ‘Plexus’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre, John’s original wine that quickly established his reputation in the early ’00s, is sourced from vineyards across the Barossa’s Northern and Central Grounds. The Shiraz hails from vineyards in Krondorf, Marananga and Ebenezer, giving the wine lovely weight and depth. The Grenache is sourced from old bush vines planted in Ebenezer and Tanunda, providing excellent aromatics and a soft, rich palate. In contrast, the Mourvèdre, sourced from old bush vines in Light Pass and Krondorf (the oldest being over 100 years old), has a spicy character and firm tannic structure. The ‘Plexus’ white, a Marsanne/Roussanne/Viognier blend, is partially fermented and aged in oak. It is defined by fresh citrus, peach and white floral notes, a beautiful textural quality on the palate and a touch of spicy ginger on the finish.

‘Entity’ is sourced mainly from old Shiraz vineyards in Krondorf, Tanunda and Light Pass. In recent years, it has also included some Eden Valley fruit to further enhance the vibrancy and elegance that defines John’s winemaking style. Made only in the best years, from a selection of the highest quality grapes across the Barossa and Eden Valleys, John Duval’s ‘Eligo’ Shiraz commands attention. The resulting wine has an incredible depth of flavour, packed with layers of plum, blackberry, spice and liquorice and fine, well-integrated tannins.

The ‘Annexus’ Grenache and ‘Annexus’ Mataro are made in tiny quantities, and only in the best years, to highlight the components of the Plexus blend as single-variety wines. Fruit for the Grenache is sourced from two very old Barossa vineyards. One lies south of Tanunda and is over 100 years old, while the other in Eden Valley was planted in the 1860s. The ‘Annexus’ Mataro was made for the first time in 2016 with fruit from a 100-year-old vineyard in Light Pass. It displays spicy plums and red cherries, with earthy notes and hints of leather.

Fruit for the Annexus Grenache was sourced solely from a very old, low-yielding vineyard in the Eden Valley. Planted in the 1860s, the vines are now over 150 years old. John obtained a small allocation for the first time in 2013 and this limited production wine will be made only in the very best years.

The 2022 vintage was set up beautifully with good soil moisture carrying over from the mild 2021 vintage. A significant October hail event reduced yields in some vineyards, but luckily most escaped without any impact on quality. La Nina influenced weather patterns resulted in mild harvest conditions again, allowing for even flavour accumulation and vibrant aromatics and acidity. A standout season.

Fermentation occurred in small, open top fermenters and included a small number of whole bunches to accentuate Grenache’s savoury characters. The wine was matured for 14 months in seasoned French oak hogsheads and puncheons.

Bright ruby red in colour, with lifted notes of raspberry, red cherry, and floral hints apparent on the nose. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, with generous layers of elegant red fruits accompanied by plenty of savoury spice and velvety tannins that ease into a long, pure finish.