Chardonnay, Giant Steps, `Bastard Hill Vineyard` Yarra Valley, Australia

Tamlyn Currin, Victoria`s cool Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, Jancis Robinson.
17++ points
Lemon sherbet and so, so tense it’s almost setting itself alight. Shimmering with nervous tension and stoniness, not an ounce of fat on those sinews. But there is real depth to the glittering citrus fruit and lapidary acidity. Asterism of flavour, from lemongrass to jasmine, lavender to bergamot. So structured and crackling with smoky energy that you can just about hear it. I found myself holding my breath.