Chardonnay, Giant Steps, `Applejack Vineyard` Yarra Valley, Australia

Tamlyn Currin, Victoria`s cool Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, Jancis Robinson.
17++ points
Bloody hell, this has grip. Acidity and texture in a cubist pleochroism. Pomelo. Lime flowers. Cold concrete floor. An almost hidden lode of smoke. The persistence, intensifying sense of polarised light. White-knuckle tension in a wine that will need time.